French food notes: Hat’s history in France

In our series providing a sideways look at French food, we examine the origins and significance of the chef’s hat

Should you be a newly trained chef eagerly carrying out an internet image search to source your very first proper toque – the name given to the high-rise, white hat so instantly associated with the professional cook’s métier – you may at first be met with a dazzling array of woolly ski hats donned by outdoorsy youths.

The reason for this is that the word toque is today used by Canadians to describe a ...

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