Rural French origins of three-star culinary career

Adam Smith outside the Jaunty Goat in Chester, where he now works

Chef Adam Smith moved to France before his 13th birthday with his parents and three younger brothers.

Dad Keith and mum Sharon had wanted a change of lifestyle and the opportunity for the four children to grow up in the countryside away from urban life in Stockport. They bought a watermill at Borrèze in the Dordogne which they ran as a chambres d’hôtes.

Adam remembers his first days at collège were difficult: “We arrived in the summer and had a great time for six weeks playing in the woods and swimming in the pool. Then it was time to go to school and I couldn’t speak any French.

“It was not like an English school where the walls were decorated. Here the classrooms were sterile and you had to ...

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