What’s your beef? Readers weigh in on the quality of French steak

Following our interview with award-winning butcher Stéphanie Hein on why French beef can seem tougher than British steak, many Connexion readers got in touch to share their experiences and opinions. Here are some of their responses:

To the editor, 

"I once refused a meal in a restaurant because the meat was so tough it was inedible. The manager came out to the table, and I thought he was going to hit me for complaining, he looked so angry.

I told him I was finding it difficult even to cut the meat. His reply?

'I will bring you a sharper knife'". R.J

"At a supermarket butchery counter the other day, I spotted a package of beef described as "Mariné & Attendri". The label gave me all the necessary information: Viande Bovine Française, Préparé en France, A griller and cooking instructions.

Hope springs eternal, and back home I opted for "Saignant – 2 min 30".

Fortunately, I had some tasty vegetables to accompany my treat. After two bites of the meat, the rest stayed on the side of my plate. Later, it went into the electric 'hachoir'.

I suspect that some supermarket butchers take home meat for their partners to cook. I also suspect that said partners say: "That's inedible, don't bring any more."

Have I discovered the reason for more French people becoming vegetarians?" C.J

"I agree with the comments regarding the toughness of French beef, and not just pre-packaged meat in supermarkets. I live among beef farmers in Dordogne, and I haven't yet found one who disagrees with me!

Recently, while waiting to be served at my local supermarket butchery counter, I picked up the traceability certificate for the beef being sold and noted the exact date of birth and date of slaughter of the animal. The period was about 12 years.

Since then, I have read others and can confirm that this is, in fact, normal. The time span generally covers 11–13 years on average.

Add in the fact that EU legal directives prevent hanging for longer than a certain period – perhaps 28 days, although I don't know for certain – and there you have your answer. This is why I gave up buying and eating beef in France years ago." R.N

"I've eaten beef around the world and always choose French beef when in France. It's a different style of beef: no hormones, slightly lower fat, perhaps a bit older at slaughter, and it needs to be hung longer.

Had a lovely Normandie entrecôte last week, washed down with a great bottle of Minervois red. I was happy." T.C

"I am totally convinced of the importance of ageing or hanging meat before cutting it up. I have seen a period of 10 days cited by butchers here as a selling point, whereas 21 days would be the case in the UK.

As well as improving the flavour and tenderness of the meat, longer hanging results in far less shrinkage during cooking. Hanging, of course, reduces the end weight of the carcass. Could this be a deciding factor here?

The same comments apply to sheep meat, including lamb, hogget and mutton, which often tests my teeth severely!" G.W

"In addition to the older age of the animal at slaughter and the minimal amount of ageing after slaughter, the meat tends to be so lean (likely the result of being grass-fed) that even long, slow braising will not tenderise it. It just gets dry.

For a country that prides itself on its obsession with quality food, this is inexplicable." J.B

"Perhaps it would be worth your reader's learning to cook meat the French way. Casseroles need long, slow cooking, but the flavour generated is excellent. As for steak, perhaps they should try buying British beef, which is available in France, or give that restaurant another chance." E.F

"Nobody said this person has to eat the steak. We love Bazas meat and can't wait for February each year to buy a prime cut. He can always go back to America." S.H

"We've heard people from other countries criticise French meat, and it is not an opinion we agree with. Find a good butcher, cook it properly and criticism will evaporate. French meat is glorious.

We've eaten around the world, too, and appreciate the breadth and depth of quality served with style and commitment, rather than more theatrical hype to disguise a lack of quality and/or excessively high prices." I.G

"I am not one to criticise, but it is true that some beef in France is very tough. I always have a secret grimace when I call at a vaunted Charolais restaurant in the Saône-et-Loire region and hope the steak knife is a sharp Laguiole type!" R.P