Day 12 French regional Christmas specialities: Seafood platter

Oysters are unavoidable - but there are many other options too

Oysters have only become a regular Christmas product in France over the past few decades

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Théophile Larcher

Published tuesday 12 December 2023 - 10:51 Last updated tuesday 12 December 2023 - 10:51

Every day from December 1-12, The Connexion will be sharing a French regional Christmas speciality. Today we look at plateau de fruits de mer, from all around France.

Oysters…of course

Seafood platters across France feature oysters almost every time, as they are known for their religious tradition, nationwide high production, delicate and refined flavour, and high value.

As Christmas comes but once a year, many families are more likely to feature expensive products on their festive tables. Oysters have long been considered by many French people as a luxury product, only accessible to the bourgeoisie and high society.

“Why Christmas in particular? Because French people want a festive meal, which is deliberately different from everyday life. People want to eat more, eat more delicate dishes, which are more calorific; and more expensive things that are not bought daily,” says Éric Birlouez, a sociologist expert in agriculture and consumption, to newspaper Slate.

While oysters have only become a regular Christmas product over recent decades, the new-ish tradition has spread nationwide for two reasons.

First, Catholic teachings always stated that the meal on Christmas Eve should be light.

And, with oysters being considered lean food - and the Catholic Church also banning the consumption of meat on December 24 - people would often eat fish and seafood.

Second, France is the number one European producer of oysters, so producers have promoted regular consumption as a way to support this important industry.

What other seafood to put on the tray?

Chef Alain Ducasse, arguably one of the greatest French chefs in the world, has his very own version of the Plateau de fruits de mer royal (royal seafood platter) for four people.

The chef’s platter comprises: