Discover the enchanting charm of Metz: A city of history, culture, and festive magic

Metz is solid, businesslike, and because much of it was constructed with yellow sandstone, very, very yellow – especially in the rain. Walk through the city centre and you'll quickly fall under its charm.

Metz is filled with green spaces and makes the most of the Moselle river which splits and splits again as it runs through the city. 

You really are never far from a boat. There are plenty of waterside walks, cafés and bars, and do not think that the pleasure is reserved for the summer months. The boats operate all year round. In the winter they are equipped with heating, rugs, and hot wine. 

There really can be no nicer way of passing an afternoon than messing about on the water all the while knowing that you are actually in a big city. 

Metz'O uses a pair of electric shuttle boats to connect the city centre with Moulins-lès-Metz. The service runs from Easter through to the autumn, and costs the same as a bus trip. Head to the 'Plan d'Eau' to rent a boat, take a boat ride or just stroll through the little marina.

The 12th Century gothic Saint-Etienne cathedral is massive, one of the tallest in France, and has 6,500m2 of stunning stained glass windows, including a series by Marc Chagall made in 1959. At Christmas there is an amazing crèche, complete with all the usual characters plus some original details. 

A local children's favourite is the Virgin Mary's wardrobe. Enter from the corner of Place d'Armes and J.F. Blondel and walk straight on until you see Notre Dame de Bon Secours (Our Lady of Perpetual Help) to see what robes she is wearing. They change according to the liturgical calendar.

Don't miss the Musée de la Cour d'Or, housed in another massive building. It describes the fascinating history of Metz, right in the centre of Europe. Entrance is free. The Centre Pompidou-Metz is also worth visiting for the modern art but also for the building itself. 

Graoully the dragon

Also look out for a dragon called Graoully. Legend has it that in the 3rd Century, when St Clément arrived in Metz bringing Christianity to the masses, he discovered that the population were terrorised by a dragon living in the ruined Roman amphitheatre. 

He therefore made a deal; he would rid the city of the dragon and in return the townsfolk would embrace Christianity. He duly ordered the unfortunate dragon into the river Seille, and he was never seen again.

But his legend lives on. You can spot him several times in the cathedral - in particular in chains at St Clément's feet. The most famous depiction, created by the Opéra-Théâtre, flies above Rue Taison, and some people still say "Taison-nous, taison-nous, j’entends le Graoully!" ("Be quiet, be quiet, I can hear the Graoully!").

Christmas in Metz

The five Christmas markets in Metz offer around 125 chalets, plus a big wheel, light projections in the trees, and the Sentier des Lanternes. From the third week of November to the end of December, stroll through the Place Saint-Louis, Place Saint-Jacques, Place d'Armes, Place de la République and the Place de la Comédie and you'll find plenty of hot wine stalls, and goodies to eat. Father Christmas will also be in attendance. 

This is a great alternative to the crowds and commercialism of the markets in Strasbourg and Colmar. Don't miss the covered market for local specialities.

If you park at the Saint-Symphorien sports complex, you can catch the free 'Traineau Flottant du Père Noël' into the centre of town which runs from 16:00 to 21:00. (This is one of the electric shuttle boats seasonally decorated and frequented by Father Christmas.)

Around the weekend of December 7, Saint-Nicolas and his scary sidekick Père Fouettard will head up a colourful parade, and there will be all sorts of events on the Place de la Comédie including circus performances, puppet shows, carol singing and an appearance by Graoully the dragon. Full details from the Tourist Office.