One of the most picturesque sites in the Périgord, La Roque-Gageac is a visual feast of limestone cliffs that drop dramatically towards the sparkling Dordogne River, while the village itself is a showcase of ochre-tinted architecture.
Sitting 13km south of Sarlat, La Roque-Gageac was once one of the biggest trading points in the Dordogne Valley, a lively river port where flat-bottomed boats known as gabarres would call in as part of the route transporting wood, wine and other goods throughout the country.
These days, the gabarres and other boats are mostly laden with tourists, because this is a great starting point from which to take an hour-long river cruise, enjoying the passing scenery from the water. You can see all the layers of history from this vantage point, especially the houses clustered prettily against the cliffs, creating a scene that helped to win it the prestigious title of ‘beau village’ in 1982.
Take a river trip on a traditional gabarreGuide du Perigord
La Roque-Gageac attracts over 800,000 visitors every year although its surface area is less than 8km².
Like many other tourist hotspots, the community faces an ongoing challenge of attracting year-round settlers, with only 439 permanent residents despite its obvious appeal and long history.
Archaeological traces date back to prehistoric times, but the village really developed in the Middle Ages, when families began to carve living spaces from the soft limestone cliffs, and you can still see a few troglodyte dwellings today.
Medieval fortress
The Fort Troglodytique is a medieval fortress from the 1100s built directly into a natural fissure in the cliff. Perched 40 meters above the rooftops of the village, it has a 180-degree panoramic view over the Dordogne Valley, perfect for its initial role as a defensive stronghold and indeed the Bishop of Sarlat took refuge in the village during the Wars of Religion in the late 1500s.
In 2010, the roof of the Fort collapsed and villagers had to be moved while major structural work was undertaken, including 18 retaining columns and instruments for monitoring rock movements and thermal sensors. It reopened to visitors in 2010, welcoming those prepared to climb the 140 stone steps and be rewarded with some truly stunning views.
Traditional buildings in la Roque-Gageacwjarek/Shutterstock
You might notice some of the 13 natural springs flowing from the cavities, and these have helped to sustain another remarkable feature of the village, namely the Jardin Exotique. The cliffs absorb the sun all day and retain the heat at night so, combined with the springs, the result is a microclimate that enabled Gérard Dorin (1935-2014), to create this incredible oasis of greenery.
Now maintained by volunteers, Dorin’s exotic garden continues to flourish, offering a riot of colour and texture, including palms, pomegranates, lemon and orange trees, olives, giant cacti, banana trees and oleanders. Open to the public and free to visit, it is an unmissable experience and offers some delicious shade if you are visiting in summer.
Homes hewn from rockfacesGuide du Périgord
Another unmissable spot is the Manoir de Tarde, a Renaissance manor dating from the 1400s, with two gabled buildings, an iconic round tower and mullioned windows. It is the architectural centerpiece of the village, and has housed notable figures over the centuries, including the bishops of Sarlat and Jean Tarde (1592-1636), a famous humanist and astronomer and friend of Galileo.
While the manor is privately owned, the vaulted stone passage running underneath the property is a public path and offers great photo opportunities.
Come and visit
La Roque-Gageac is busiest in summer, but come on a Friday morning in May or September and you can still enjoy the farmers’ market, pick up some fresh bread, cheese and olives and take a riverside picnic.
Otherwise, arrive late afternoon, when you are more likely to find a parking spot!
