Mosaic masterpiece: French home as a work of art

Chartres (Eure-et-Loir) is famous for its magnificent cathedral, a masterpiece of French Gothic architecture from the 12th Century, but head two kilometres south-east and you will find an equally impressive work of art on a more human scale.

La Maison Picassiette is a humble dwelling with no modern amenities or running water, but the entire property has been decorated inside and out in colourful mosaics. 

The detail is truly astonishing – and even more impressive when you learn that it was all the work of one man. 

Raymond Isidore

Born in 1900, Raymond Isidore was the seventh of eight children. 

He lost his sight aged two and, when he was ten, his mother took him to Chartres Cathedral to pray before the Virgin Mary. 

It was then that he suddenly regained his vision. He later said that in the darkness of the cathedral, he could make out the colours, shapes and scenes of the stained-glass windows, which made a lasting impression. 

Raymond started work at 13 but never stuck with any one job for long.

At 24 he met Adrienne, then 35, a widow with three children. After initially living in a flat, they bought a small plot of farmland just outside Chartres and Raymond set about building a row of three rooms: a combined kitchen and living room, the children’s bedroom and the parents’ bedroom. 

The result was a simple, 30m² home and the family moved in on August 15, 1930.

An accidental artist

Raymond was a keen rambler and often picked up small pieces of shiny, coloured glass when walking the surrounding fields, storing them in his garden. 

After a few years, he began to decorate the interior walls with mosaics, gradually moving on to the table, chairs, sideboard and even the cooker. 

His wife joked: “One day, I’ll wake up and you’ll have covered me in mosaics, too!”

Raymond continued to gather ceramic and glass fragments on his walks, and also foraged in rubbish tips for material. Later, local children would bring him broken, colourful pottery in exchange for a coin. 

After his two stepsons left home, their bedroom was transformed into a winter garden room. Later, following World War Two, Raymond began decorating the exterior of his house as well, which naturally caught the attention of his neighbours.

People began to visit the house, curious about the work that Raymond had done over so many years. 

Some brought him postcards of scenes to inspire him. Others were less complimentary, giving him the nickname pique-assiette – from piquer (to steal) and assiette (plate) – because of how he sourced his materials. 

In the 1950s, the house was featured in a few magazines and the nickname stuck, although it later became Picassiette as a small nod to Picasso. 

By the 1960s, La Maison Picassiette had gained a reputation and drew coachloads of visitors keen to see his unique art up close.

Open to visitors

The Isidore residence has not been inhabited since the city of Chartres bought the property from Raymond’s widow in 1981. 

Two years later, it was classed as a monument historique and it has been open to the public ever since, although it requires constant maintenance. 

Visitors can only go inside the house as part of a guided visit. However, you can also peek in through the doorways and windows, and explore the grounds. 

Restorers use reference photos from the 1960s to stay faithful to the original bright colours that Raymond loved so much.

With no particular artistic training, Raymond followed his instincts, using ordinary trowels, spoons, forks, a pocket knife and, above all, his hands. 

It is estimated that he used 15 tonnes of multi-coloured crockery and glass debris to create his artworks and he travelled hundreds of kilometres to collect his material, from landfill sites to farmland and country paths around Chartres. 

His spirituality shines through various religious scenes, representations of Chartres Cathedral and personal visions of gardens and landscapes. 

For three decades, Raymond expanded his work, acquired more land and multiplied his creations, before finally stopping in 1962.

“For me, my house is complete; all I have to do now is to maintain it,” he said.

On September 6, 1964, just before his 64th birthday, Raymond died while out walking. He was found on a path 15km from his house, 

His humble cottage among the fields has become a testament to how the creative inspiration of one human being can leave a lasting legacy.

Entry is €9 (€12 in July and August) and free for children under six.