Périgueux: picturesque market town at the historic heart of Dordogne

The area which is now called Dordogne roughly corresponds with the ancient land of Périgord, which was named after the market town of Périgueux. 

It became Dordogne (named after the river which runs east to west through the middle of the département) in 1790. 

Périgueux is the administrative capital and préfecture of Dordogne and, with approaching 30,000 inhabitants, is the town with the largest population. 

Boulazac Isle Manoire (which could be described as a southern extension of Périgueux) has nearly 11,000 inhabitants. 

Like Bergerac, Sarlat and Brantôme, Périgueux has a beautiful historic centre, which is noticeably quieter in the winter months than during the frenetic summer season. 

The town comes alive on Saturday mornings, however, when the market sprawls through the picturesque, historic centre. Look out for stalls selling duck, foie gras, and truffles. 

Normally the pace is relaxed, and there are plenty of cafés and bars where you can while away a sleepy hour or two, not to mention a mouth-watering range of restaurants. Also check out Boukies, the anglophone bookshop and café.

The site of Périgueux has been occupied since pre-historic times, going back to as early as 40,000 BC. The Romans incorporated the city into Aquitaine in 27BC and the city of Vesunna was built between 25-16BC.

The excavated remains of the city have been protected by a vast glass building, which offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into life during Roman times. 

Back in the centre of Périgueux, the Musée d'Art et d'Archéologie du Perigord completes the subject with a vast array of prehistoric tools, decorative items and accessories, as well as a permanent exhibition of fine arts. There is an option to buy a ticket covering both Vesunna and the museum, which can be visited on different days. 

There is also the smaller, but no less fascinating, Musée Militaire which is run by volunteers and covers wars from the Napoleonic period to World War Two.

Olden Days en Fête

For an entire weekend at the end of August/beginning of September, Périgueux is taken over by old cars, old clothes, and old music. 

The Vintage Days festival isn't fussy about which vintage you prefer. People re-enacting a World War two soldiers' barbecue, a group of friends dressed as flappers, a dance troupe in 1960s outfits, it's all good. Bands will be playing jazz and boogie-woogie, with DJs spinning 80s hits. 

There will be stands offering free 'vintage' hair and make-up do-overs. Market stalls will be selling voluminous netting petticoats and crowds will line the route of the parades of vintage cars, vans and lorries. 

There will be dance performances, concerts, and a competition for the best mini-drama enacted by a team driving a vintage car (think honeymoon couple leaping out of a vintage car and having a comedic argument, or bank robbers throwing fake bank notes into the crowd).

The event attracts people of all ages, and the accent is definitely on having fun and being silly in the nicest possible way. No-one is really fussed if your 1940s WAF uniform isn't 100% authentic or if you're wearing crocs with your 1950s petticoat. The watchword is ‘Enjoy’!

More Dordogne attractions 

The balmy weather, rolling hills, cosy cottages and picturesque villages of Dordogne have attracted so many Anglophone foreigners that it is often affectionately called Dordogne-shire. As well as its chocolate-box beauty, people love the tranquillity of daily life in this corner of France. 

If you yearn for long dog-walks, fresh countryside air and a lively expat social scene, Dordogne could be your dream destination.

For tourists, Dordogne offers a massive range of attractions including the extraordinary Lascaux caves and the wonderful Château des Milandes, which once belonged to Josephine Baker. 

In the face of competition from other attractions including escape and laser games, the chateaux of Dordogne have worked really hard, meaning the days of trailing around some dusty old pile are long gone. 

These days, chateaux offer children's games, mazes, workshops, evening visits by candlelight, treasure hunts, Easter egg hunts and more. Check their websites to find out what's happening before you visit.

Other attractions in Dordogne include caves, excavated Roman sites, windmills, watermills, and parks including Les Jardins d'Eau (water gardens) in Carsac-Aillac, Les Jardins Panoramiques de Limeuil (English-style gardens), and Les Jardins de Marqueyssac with their extraordinary box hedges. 

You can try: petting farms, historic reconstructions, amusement parks, swimming pools and lakes, rivers, canoes and kayaks, boat-rides, fishing, water skiing, zoos, escape games, golf, spas, balloon rides, parachuting, climbing, riding, cycling, go-karting, hiking and, of course, wine tasting. 

It would take decades to do it all.