Occasionally I come across a product, previously untasted or even unheard of, which is so delicious that it warrants a hearty recommendation. The most recent was the French equivalent of Jammie Dodgers, called Les Lunettes de Romans.
This being France, this biscuit – which translates as “Glasses from Romans” in reference to the Drôme town of Romans-sur-Isère from whence they hail – is much more refined and elegant than the basic childhood treat we remember so fondly.
It helped that the brand I chanced upon was not a supermarket’s basic brand, whose lesser, cheaper biscuits sometimes contain palm oil instead of butter, but a richly luxurious gâteau from the Nos Régions ont du Talent range sold at Leclerc (this is not a paid promotion, and other supermarket brands make them too). As with all French products, the more you are willing to pay, the better the quality.
Sold in stylish 350g packets, they are traditional shortbreads, characterised by their oval eyeglass shape (hence the “lunettes” allusion) and rounded with pretty scalloped edges. Their double hole tantalisingly reveals its sticky, sweet fruit jam filling. Its dusting of powdered sugar lends further visual appeal and a sweet touch.
My first taste was of the apricot (abricot) version, but my subsequent addiction led to a sampling of all the other available flavours: fraise (with Drôme strawberry purée) and myrtille (blueberry).
It was such a taste and texture sensation, the crisp yet softly crumbling buttery pastry vessel perfectly allied to the intensely fruity interior.
Needless to say, once I had devoured half a packet, off I went to explore this teatime treat’s pâtisserie origins.
Romans-sur-Isère is in the historic Dauphiné region, whose fertile valleys lend themselves to fruit-growing. It was here back in the Middle Ages that Italian immigrants from the Piedmont region are said to have introduced the biscuit from their homeland, recreating their native pastry by filling it with jam made from locally harvested fruits.
While usually enjoyed at le goûter with a tisane or cup of coffee, Les Lunettes de Romans also invite a boozy accompaniment – I will be sure to try some with the recommended pairing of a glass of Clairette de Die, the Drôme’s very own sparkling white wine.
Tchin-tchin!
A lunettes recipe
Makes 12
Ingredients
300g all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
quarter teaspoon fine sea salt
100g solid white vegetable shortening (Crisco)
200g sugar
3 tablespoons aquafaba
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
half a teaspoon almond extract
80ml plant milk
raspberry jam
apricot jam (optional)
icing sugar, for dusting (optional)
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
2. In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. It’s not necessary to sift the ingredients, but I like to give them a quick whisk to aerate the flour a little and mix everything together.
3. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, beat together the shortening, sugar, aquafaba, vanilla, and almond extract on high speed until fully incorporated, about two minutes. Add the milk and mix until incorporated. Gradually add the flour mixture, mixing on low speed until fully combined. Be careful not to overmix. (If you’re not baking the biscuits immediately, divide the dough into two flat disks, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill for up to two days.)
4. Lightly flour a work surface and roll out the dough about 1cm thick. Use a 10cm round or oval biscuit cutter to cut out 24 biscuits. Use a 2.5cm cutter to cut out two “eyes” on half of the biscuit disks and place all the disks on the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 5-7 minutes.
Choose whether you would like to use one or two flavours of jam in your lunettes Seva_blsv/Shutterstock
5. Allow the biscuits to cool completely. When you’re ready to assemble, spread a teaspoon of raspberry jam in the centre-left of one of the non-cut-out biscuits.
Spread another teaspoon of jam on the centre-right (apricot jam on this side, if using). Place the remaining 12 biscuits (with cutouts) on top and press them together to seal. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired.
This recipe features in Voilà Vegan 85 decadent, secretly plant-based desserts from an American pâtisserie in Paris: A baking book by Amanda Bankert. Published by Avery, RRP $35.00.
