Les Lunettes de Romans: the French biscuit treat that revives childhood memories

The more sophisticated French equivalent of a jammie dodger comes from the Drôme

This delicious Drôme biscuit is a real teatime treat
Published


Occasionally this Food noter comes across a product, previously untasted or even unheard of, which is so delicious that it warrants a hearty recommendation. The most recent was the French equivalent of Jammie Dodgers, called Les Lunettes de Romans.

This being France, this biscuit – which translates as “Glasses from Romans” in reference to the Drôme town of Romans-sur-Isère from whence they hail – is much more refined and elegant than the basic childhood treat we remember so fondly.

It helped that the brand I chanced upon was not a supermarket’s basic brand, whose lesser, cheaper biscuits sometimes contain palm oil instead of butter, but a richly luxurious gâteau from the Nos Régions ont du Talent range sold at Leclerc (this is not a paid promotion, and other supermarket brands make them too). As with all French products, the more you are willing to pay, the better the quality.

Sold in stylish 350g packets, they are traditional shortbreads, characterised by their oval eyeglass shape (hence the “lunettes” allusion) and rounded with pretty scalloped edges. Their double hole tantalisingly reveals its sticky, sweet fruit jam filling. Its dusting of powdered sugar lends further visual appeal and a sweet touch.

My first taste was of the apricot (abricot) version, but my subsequent addiction led to a sampling of all the other available flavours: fraise (with Drôme strawberry purée) and myrtille (blueberry).

It was such a taste and texture sensation, the crisp yet softly crumbling buttery pastry vessel perfectly allied to the intensely fruity interior.

Needless to say, once I had devoured half a packet, off I went to explore this teatime treat’s pâtisserie origins.

Romans-sur-Isère is in the historic Dauphiné region, whose fertile valleys lend themselves to fruit-growing. It was here back in the Middle Ages that Italian immigrants from the Piedmont region are said to have introduced the biscuit from their homeland, recreating their native pastry by filling it with jam made from locally harvested fruits.

While usually enjoyed at le goûter with a tisane or cup of coffee, Les Lunettes de Romans also invite a boozy accompaniment – I will be sure to try some with the recommended pairing of a glass of Clairette de Die, the Drôme’s very own sparkling white wine. 

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