Our French gîte: a classic river barge dating from 1912

It could have been a chateau. It could have been a country house. But Sandrine Walter and Maxime Mézergues’ dreams of running their own chambre d’hôte business ultimately took a more unexpected turn: a 30metre-long Luxmotor barge built in 1912 and currently moored on the Doubs, in Choisey (Jura).

The couple made the decision after buying a smaller boat called Energie d’Amour for holidays. They quickly experienced what they had always hoped to bring to a future hospitality business - a chance to get away from it all and unwind.

The craft they eventually settled on for the venture, MS Maïtena, was owned by friends from Dole, several kilometres upstream. 

From pleasure boat to guest house

The Walter-Mézergues spent several weeks on the barge before making an offer.

At the time it was classed as a bateau de plaisance (pleasure boat) but the couple saw potential to create two guest rooms at the bow. With the owners’ quarters tucked away at the back of the boat, there was enough space to maintain privacy for clients while they were onboard. The péniche-hôtel idea was born. 

MS Maïtena represents a brand new life for the couple. They quit their respective jobs, which they both felt had become monotonous, and sold their house.

Sandrine, 55 and a mother of three, had already built a career in the hospitality sector. 

Maxime, 54 and a father of two, had previously worked in IT and sales, so also had relevant customer service experience. 

“It’s really important for us to serve our clients to the best of our abilities,” says Sandrine.

Creature comforts and fine dining

One year into their floating business, they are happy with how things are going. 

Guests sleep in the suite deluxe, a cocoon-like bedroom that still manages to squeeze in a queen-size bed and even a tiny desk. There is also a private bathroom with hairdryer, towels, WC, and a hydro-massage shower, and access to a deck terrace at the front of the boat. 

The suite deluxe can be configured for two couples, both in separate rooms, but this is only available if they already know each other, says Sandrine.

Sandrine and Maxime are based at the other end of the boat in the cabine du marinier, complete with the evocative boaty smell of engine oil.

The living space in the middle of the boat, accommodating both a lounge and dining room, is the beating heart of the floating hotel experience.

Here you can sit quietly and watch riverbank life unfold through the window. With floors designed at water level, it really feels like you are standing on the current itself.

This social space also offers the perfect opportunity to chat to Sandrine and Maxime about life afloat – or challenge fellow guests to a board game in an area dedicated specifically to such pursuits.

The holiday is topped off by the homemade gastronomie fine menu at €39, with main courses cooked by Maxime and desserts by Sandrine.

“My father is from Périgord and my mother from the Doubs. I try to cook local meals with a reference to the Midi,” says Maxime, who cites Alain Ducasse – the first chef to own restaurants carrying three Michelin Stars in three cities – and Laurent Barberot, of acclaimed restaurant La Chaumière in Dole, as inspiration.

He gives the example of his croûpe forestière, which features cèpes, a mushroom that holds strong childhood memories. 

Other dishes contain the south-west staple magret de canard instead of the more regionally traditional beef.

Sandrine, meanwhile, is particularly proud of her yuzu lemon dome dessert, which she serves with blackberry coulis (“Blackberries are everywhere around here!”). Breakfasts feature her homemade jams with seasonal fruits.

The couple are still trying to perfect their business model, which during the first year was often adapted to satisfy the wishes of their guests.

Prices vary depending on the specific package: the boat can be booked for a single night or a cruise of several days, with breakfasts and lunches included. 

For the wealthiest clients, a six days/five nights cruise with multiple stops along the Doubs comes in at around €20,000. To date, clients have been overwhelmingly enthusiastic. 

“Every time, they have left feeling refreshed and with sparkling eyes,” says Maxime.

“That’s exactly what we were looking for. We wanted something that would re-energise us and allow us to have fun, whether it was with the food, the service, or anything else. Guests are delighted.”

The reviews certainly back this up.

“The food is delicious, worthy of a gourmet restaurant. And the boat itself is of an equally high standard – elegant, warm and understated,” gush Christiane and Gérard. “Their barge should be called ‘House of Happiness’,” they add in a postscript. Find out more.