Garlic is audacious. Its pungent scent and powerful flavour – with each small clove packing a huge punch – have aroused strong feelings throughout history. This is an ingredient which, at times, has been scorned by the upper classes in society, and frowned upon by a number of the world’s religions.
On the other hand, garlic’s extraordinary ability to transform and invigorate dishes has made it a much-loved and essential flavouring in kitchens around the world. There is a distinctly democratic streak to its universal popularity; eaten with relish by the poor in many countries for many centuries, it has long been known to ancient civilizations, including those of China, India, Egypt, Greece and Rome.
Garlic by Jenny LinfordRyland Peters & Small
The name ‘garlic’ originates from the Anglo Saxon word ‘gar’ meaning spear, a reference to the shape of the plant’s leaves, though the plant itself is thought to be native to Central Asia. Otherwise known as allium sativum, garlic’s powerful flavour is released through crushing and chopping.
One of the pleasures of cooking with it is learning how to adjust the level of ‘garlic power’ as required. For example, keeping a garlic clove whole makes it less powerful than cutting it into small pieces, in order to subtly infuse but not overwhelm a dish. A whole garlic clove fried in oil but then discarded, with the flavoured oil then used for cooking, is an effective method of adding its distinctive taste discreetly.
A whole garlic clove placed in the cavity of a chicken before roasting has a similar effect, as has adding one to a slowly simmered casserole or sauce. Rubbing a salad bowl with a peeled garlic clove is a classic and elegant way of adding garlic notes.
1. Rinse the mussels well under cold running water, discarding any which are open or cracked. Scrub thoroughly to remove any beards or grit.
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2. Put the cleaned mussels in a large pan, adding cold water to a depth of 2.5cm/1in. up the side of the pan. Set the pan over a medium heat, cover and cook the mussels for around 5 minutes, until they have steamed open.
3. Drain the mussels, discarding any that haven’t opened during the cooking process.
4. Once the mussels are cool enough to handle, pull one half of each shell off each mussel, leaving the mussel anchored in the remaining half. Place the mussels, shellside down, on a baking sheet.
5. Mix together the breadcrumbs, wild garlic or ramps and olive oil, seasoning with salt and freshly ground pepper. Spoon a little of the breadcrumb mixture over each mussel, so that it forms a topping.
6. Preheat a grill or broiler to its highest setting and cook the topped mussels for 2–3 minutes until the crumb topping turns golden brown. Serve at once.
