We brought bikes over from the UK, but I could not keep up with Allan as he was a lot fitter than me.
However, when we retired, I bought an electric bike and it went from there.
One of our first long rides was along the Canal du Midi, but I would not recommend it because the path is not always well maintained and it is a bit straight and samey.
In 2020, we had a really wonderful adventure cycling from Santander to Oviedo in Spain. We drove to Santander and left the car there. We cycled for several days, stopping in different places, and then got the train back to the car at the end.
During the Covid-19 pandemic we cycled almost every day, which really improved my fitness, and once I swapped to a lightweight carbon fibre electric bike I could keep up more easily.
The first bike was powerful but heavy (23kg). My new one weighs just 11.5kg, which makes it so much easier to lift in and out of trains – there are steps everywhere. At Narbonne station for example, there are no lifts at all.
We have done all sorts of trips in Spain, and in March 2024 we took our bikes to the UK to Norfolk and Cambridge. We have also cycled from Lyon to Nîmes.
This summer we plan to leave the car in Barcelona and take the bikes on the ferry to Alcudia (Majorca) for a week of cycling. We also want to explore along the Loire. There is a train from Tours that follows the river down to the coast and has a bike carriage. The idea is to spend time at the coast, and then cycle slowly back to Tours.
Kate with cycling friendsKate and Allan Kirk
We pack very light: one cycling outfit each (which we wash at hotels); two pairs of lightweight shorts; tops for the evening; three pairs of socks/underwear, which we wash daily; cagoules and waterproof shoe covers; e-readers; a minimal wash bag; and a sketching kit.
If the terrain is flat we cover 50–60km a day. We surprise ourselves – once you get into a rhythm you can keep going.
Kate's tips for getting started
It is not worth getting fit before going cycling – most people know their fitness level and adjust their rides accordingly. In any case, cycling gets you fit.
Hire bikes first to see if you really enjoy it. We have some friends who regularly fly into Béziers from the UK and hire bikes for a week.
We use the Komoot app, which plans routes without making too many mistakes. It tells you where the bad paths are and suggests alternative routes. It tells you how steep the hills are as well, so you can see the details and gauge the difficulty. It also has a GPS function, and tells you when you have to dismount and push the bike. We rely on it.
It is worth buying properly padded cycling shorts/leggings. In winter, I put loose joggers over the top to keep warm. Special cycle shoes are only useful for professionals – we cycle in trainers. We have cycle gloves because they are more comfortable, and chromatic sunglasses, which are quite good. We wear lightweight sports tops and T-shirts, which wash and dry quickly.
We do not book accommodation in advance because we do not know exactly how far we will cycle each day. We use Booking.com to find last-minute rooms.
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Find out more
France’s 700km bike path La Voie Bleue, which links Luxembourg and Lyon, was named 2026 European Cycle Route of the Year. However, the country has several other cycling gems and plenty of dedicated organisations and websites that offer advice, routes and support for long-distance adventures:
France Vélo Tourisme is the main national body listing long-distance bike routes across France, with detailed itineraries and maps to plan multi-day trips.
EuroVelo is the European long-distance cycle route network that covers several major routes through France, with a website that provides route planning tools and guides.
The Fédération française de cyclotourisme (FFCT) is France’s main federation for cycle touring (including long rides), offering guidance, clubs, organised rides, safety and planning resources.
As well as the Komoot phone app suggested by Kate, further popular route-planning platforms exist, including Freewheeling France, VeloPlanner, and Bikemap.
