You can’t do better than buttery breakfast brioche

Over the summer, your Food noter was invited to several barbecues, and while the French are not especially into burgers-in-a-bun when it comes to summer grilling – obviously being more gastronomically sophisticated, they prefer to serve up a nicely caramelised saucisse de Toulouse, chicken and pepper kebabs or other ‘grillades’ such as marinated pork steaks or a glorious côte de boeuf, surely the king of barbecue meats. 

However, there was one host who indulged this British guest with some boucherie-bought, freshly-minced burger patties, which he happily squished and flattened on the grill into ‘smash burger’-type delights. 

He was especially keen to point out – and I equally thrilled – that they were sandwiched in ‘brioché’ burger buns – the only vessel for any self-respecting barbecue aficionado. 

The brioche element is key, not only because it is richer than a plain wheat bun, but because it has more suppleness and give, thus lending itself to convenient hand-held consumption. 

A brioche lies halfway between bread and cake, and has origins in Normandy. The word is believed to be derived from the verb brier, an ancient form of ‘broyer’ in Norman, which meant ‘to knead the dough with a wooden roller’.

With its butter content it used to be reserved for the higher classes but became a French ‘petit déj’ staple by the 1970 thanks to industrialised production and cheaper butter. 

Other regions have become known for the quality of their brioches, notably Vendée, where huge braided brioches flavoured with orange blossom are traditionally served up at weddings.

The Parisian brioche, meanwhile, consists of two dough balls, one small, the other larger, stacked on top of each other.

There is, in my opinion, nothing more enticing at a French breakfast table (or for le goûter (tea-time)), than thick slices of light and moist brioche ready to be slathered in jam – though perhaps hold off on the butter, as they are already generously laden with the stuff.

The word brioche famously has a historical context – the phrase “S’ils n’ont pas de pain? Qu’ils mangent de la brioche !” (If they don’t have any bread, let them eat brioche) is erroneously attributed to Marie-Antoinette – it was actually first said by writer Jean-Jacques Rousseau.

Perfect porcelain: Parisian winter on a plate

High-end porcelain from Limoges represents a lifetime’s investment in quality and style (don’t drop it!). Splash out on some superb tableware on a seasonal theme with a dinner set from Raynaud, such as Agnès Ernoult’s fanciful and charming street scenes of Paris hand-painted on porcelain. €67 for a 21cm plate.

Let it billes! Sweet balls shake up the confectionery scene

Made in Paris in an artisanal workshop, Bonbilles are aiming to shake up the rules of French chocolate confectionery. These little balls with crunchy shells and melt-in-the-mouth centre play on contrasting textures and unexpected combinations – try crunchy blackcurrant, soft mango, tangy cherry, or snow-like vanilla.

 Buy in partner stores in Paris or order online.