'Michelin dared to say we use cheddar in our soufflé!'

Celebrity French chef Marc Veyrat in spat with Michelin Guide over star status

Published Last updated

Celebrity chef Marc Veyrat has said he wants to withdraw his restaurant from the Michelin Guide in a row over the loss of one of his stars.

Mr Veyrat, who is famous for his signature black hat and for using unusual botanical plants such as mountain plants, mountain herbs, and wild flowers in his recipes, accused a "new generation" at the Guide for "attacking institutions", after his Haute-Savoie restaurant Maison des Bois, in Manigod, lost its three-star rating in the latest edition of the renowned 'Red Book'.

"I've been depressed for six months. How dare you take the health of your cooks hostage?" he said in an interview in Le Point this week. "This is serious for all those who come after us," he added.

"I've decided to get rid of my two stars. I am withdrawing from the Michelin Guide."

He said that he had already visited the guide's headquarters in Boulogne-Billancourt to find out why his restaurant was given a two-star rating in the latest edition. "They dared to say that we put cheddar cheese in our reblochon, beaufort and tomme soufflé! They insulted the region, my employees were furious," he said.

He has demanded access to the Guide's accounts to see when inspectors visited his restaurant.

But Mr Veyrat's demands will not be met. The Guide's international director, Gwendal Poullennec, told AFP that Maison des Bois would not be removed.

"If the facility remains open and our inspectors evaluate the table at one of our awards, we will continue to recommend it," he said.

"Just because Chef Veyrat did not see our inspectors, it does not mean that they did not have dinner at his table. Michelin Guide inspectors visit tables around the world anonymously. They pay their bills like any other customer."

Stay informed:
Sign up to our free weekly e-newsletter
Subscribe to access all our online articles and receive our printed monthly newspaper The Connexion at your home. News analysis, features and practical help for English-speakers in France