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Should French restaurants start charging for bread?
‘We have people who make a meal out of bread and a carafe d’eau ’
When people go out to eat in France, the basket of bread arriving at the table is almost a tradition, placed on the table before the meal even arrives and without anyone having to ask for it.
However, as restaurants face rising costs, one owner in Nice wonders if maybe it is time to question whether bread should continue to be served at the price of a meal…or at least its refill.
Céline Fallet, who runs Café Paulette in Nice with her husband, told The Connexion that the restaurant spends around €1,600 to €1,700 a month on bread.
"Of course bread has increased, because the price of flour has gone up and so on. It has had a complete impact on us," she said.
Under Article 4 of the June 8, 1967, in establishments serving food and drink, bread is included as part of the couvert provided with a meal. "The couvert necessarily includes, in addition to bread, tap water, spices or ingredients, and all products or items, such as crockery, glassware, napkins."
But Ms Fallet would like to see that change. "I'm completely in favour of making people pay for bread," she said.
"Why would it be free when we buy it?"
For Ms Fallet, the issue isn’t just the price of a basket of bread.
It is that restaurants are expected to provide it without an additional charge, even when customers ask for it repeatedly.
"We have people who make a meal out of bread and a carafe d’eau," she said.
"They arrive and say, 'I'm very hungry and very thirsty', and they ask for a basket of bread and water."
"Now, on top of the bread, there are other little things asked like olive oil," she said.
"You can't increase salaries, lower prices, keep buying good-quality products, and then somehow make it all work."
One possibility, she suggested, would be to offer the first portion free and charge customers who want more.
"You don't impose it," she said. "People would simply order it if they wanted it, with the first portion free so they don't feel they're being charged for something they didn't ask for.
"That would be a service, but at the purchase price."
Making bread in-house might seem like another solution, but Ms Fallet said this would not necessarily be cheaper.
"Of course we've thought about it," she said. "It would be an economy if we had the staff to do it. But it's time-consuming."
Making it themselves would require additional labour, equipment and time, she said, meaning it can be cheaper to buy bread from elsewhere rather than take a member of the kitchen team away from other work.
"If we want to maintain our staff, our quality and everything else, unfortunately you have to have an impact on the bill – and from time to time, consumers will have to make small efforts too," she said.
She believes the rules should be changed and has even suggested starting a petition to allow restaurants to charge for bread.
The Connexion asked people what they thought about the idea.
One restaurant owner says customers take too much
Rob Redshaw, owner of the REDD, wine bar in central Paris said:
"Sometimes we feel that customers are abusive and take more than they need … the old question: can we have more bread please.
"We've often discussed that maybe after the second pannier we should ask for payment, but it's way too complicated to do so in France."
"In Italy many restaurants charge for bread. But I don't think the French would accept it."
Some see a case for charging
For some, charging for bread would be a reasonable way of giving customers more choice…and could even help reduce waste.
"Sometimes, even when we haven't asked for more, if the waiter sees that our basket is empty, they will replace it with a full basket.
"I always see piles of bread in the waste bin.
"Of course bread isn't free, it's just included in the price of other meals we buy. It's better if the restaurant separates the cost so that we can choose what we want to buy,” B.C
"Currently there is a lot of waste: people may eat some but not all, then bread may be discarded, or left to dry out and end in the bin.
"Maybe bread could become optional. If you want some you pay for it and take it home if some is left. I feel people would be more respectful of it if they had to pay for the pleasure,” C.O
"How about asking if you want it and not getting charged. If you ask for it presumably you will eat it," J.R
L.D, who owns a bakery, said the cost of ingredients is only one part of running a food business.
"I think what people don't understand is that the price of the ingredients is just a very small percentage of the costs of a business," she said.
"I think that if a restaurant decides to offer bread with certain dishes, like salad or soup, they can calculate it in advance. And for the rest – ask for money.
"Not everyone wants to eat bread, so it can definitely be offered as an option and not as default."
"The flour price has 70% increased since 2022. So it is logical that the restaurants need to cover their costs," E.S
"Nothing in France compares with the 20-30 percent tipping expected in the US. I'm quite happy to pay for bread!" T.C
"I usually only eat a piece, maybe two if they are small baguette slices. I'm indifferent and could easily elect to go without being charged.
"But I feel like it would open the door to eventually charging for a carafe d'eau," E.M
Others say bread is part of eating out in France
For others, however, charging for bread would go against a familiar part of French dining culture.
"Bread should stay free, it is expected everywhere, it is part of the French culture to have this basic service at the table.
"Restaurants are free to raise their menu items to absorb those rising costs, but the rest – no tipping, free water, free bread, free piece of cutlery, free seating – is the very core of the culture. Don't try to change that." L.M
"That's not happening anytime soon, there'd be a revolution," M.D
"No thanks. Not something we do in restaurants. I won't even play with the idea," A.H
"It would make dining out with a group awkward since not everyone eats bread. The restaurant should just make every menu item slightly more expensive," M.H
"It would be a scam for me," D.G
"I think it would be too much. Bread can be made cheaply," E.D
"I would not miss it since I still never eat bread without butter or olive oil. But, it would be a bit less civilized to eliminate or charge for bread," H.B
"It is a question of culture: French love bread. Personally, I would be very shocked.” A.C
For now, the familiar bread basket remains part of the couvert.
How would you feel if bread were to be charged? Send us your opinion at feedback@connexionfrance.com