Time to celebrate Beaujolais Nouveau!

November is a great month to party in Beaujeu (Rhône). The village normally has a population of just 2,500 but during the third week (November 18–22), around 35,000 people head for the village as it celebrates the opening of the first bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau.

Les Sarmentelles de Beaujeu was founded in 1989 and has become a tradition for people in the area. “People around here look forward to it all year round,” says Marie-Thérèse Maître, the secretary of the association Les Sarmentelles.

“It starts on Wednesday with three separate events in different venues across the village, each with a different atmosphere. The ‘Soirée Prestige’ includes a parade and several concerts. It’s very upbeat and fun. 

At the theatre, the atmosphere at the ‘Soirée Gourmande’ is altogether more laid back, with a large meal and a dance afterwards. The ‘Soirée Festive’ is more traditional, with a meal and French chansons. There is something for everyone. But obviously you need to book ahead for the meals.”

Wednesday also sees a series of annual Intronisations – inductions to the Confrérie (Guild) of Beaujolais. This is a serious business, as compagnons promise to defend and promote winemaking in the area as well as the region itself. “Wednesday culminates at midnight with the tapping of the first barrels of Beaujolais Nouveau, which everyone tastes,” says Marie-Thérèse Maître.

“The festival continues with more concerts and dancing, but especially with the Salon des Vins, where people can taste the various Beaujolais on offer and buy their favourites. 

“The wines are different each year but Beaujolais Nouveau is always good. The chefs at the festival use it to make a traditional wine sauce for the beef. “Even though Les Sarmentelles takes place in November, the weather doesn’t bother us. Most of the large events are held indoors and even the outdoor events usually go ahead, thanks to the 300 volunteers who run the festival on the ground. Rain isn’t the problem, but wind can be a nuisance.”

Beaujeu was once the capital of the Beaujolais region. It was named after the local Beaujeu lords who gave their name to the region. The Beaujeu family played a key role in the development of the local wine industry by building a commercial port in Villefranche. This is why the village is now regarded as the heart of Beaujolais wines and why the inhabitants decided to create a massive annual festival to celebrate the new wine.

Beaujolais Nouveau is made from Gamay grapes grown in 38 communes in the region. It is bright and fruity, fermented for just a few weeks and bottled with a fresh taste meant to be enjoyed immediately. Storing is almost always a mistake. Beaujolais Nouveau is tapped on the third Thursday of November and not before, although it can be sold and exported in anticipation of that date.

The labels are usually bright and fun, designed to accentuate the enjoyment of tasting the first of the new season’s wines.

The atmosphere is festive and international (people of around 20 different nationalities attend), with visitors of all ages joining in the fun. Attractions this year include a torchlight procession, a Marché Gourmand featuring local producers, guided visits, and rides in 2CVs or horse-drawn carts.

Visitors can also explore the village’s museum, La Maison du Terroir Beaujolais, and visit the Salon des Vins.

On Friday night there will be a concert of Johnny Hallyday hits; on Saturday there is an organ concert in the church and an 80s-themed night with a meal and a show.

On Sunday there are additional attractions for children.