Cabrerets: ancient troglodyte caves and rich architectural heritage

In the middle of France, between Toulouse and Limoges, this village sits on the pilgrimage trail of Santiago de Compostela, also known as The Way. Dominated by the wide, rushing river and the soaring cliff face, Cabrerets is home to only 220 residents yet boasts a surprising wealth of architectural heritage, including troglodyte caves, two castles and two museums. 

Within the cliffs around the village, you’ll find several Maisons Troglodytes, homes that appear to cling to or emerge from the vertical rocks. They are centuries old and show how locals simply adapted to the landscape, carving out a place to live. Traces of dwellings here go back 20,000 years, and Cabrerets is renowned for its prehistoric treasure, La Grotte du Pech Merle. 

This is one of the most remarkable caves of its kind, with exceptional cave paintings that show human figures, mammoths, bison and curious spotted horses. Discovered in 1922, La Grotte du Pech Merle is one of very few decorated caves that are open to the public, although you’ll need to book ahead in peak season. 

You can follow an underground trail that leads you past a delightful variety of frescoes that are in incredibly good condition, preserved over the centuries in these hidden caves.

Your ticket for the La Grotte includes entry to the Musée de la Préhistoire to learn more about this cave, its unique illustrations, and the life of our prehistoric ancestors. 

More recent history

Emerging from a cliff above Cabrerets you’ll see the ghostly remains of the Château des Anglais, reminiscent of a scene from Lord of the Rings or Gormenghast. Built into the overhanging rocks in the 1200s, this once-majestic castle - also known as Château du Diable - fell into the hands of the English during the Hundred Years’ War. You can no longer get inside, but the ruins still keep their watchful eye over the village below. 

The second château, Château de Cabrerets, was built in the 1400s by local lords, and you can easily spot its turrets among the greenery, overlooking the River Célé. This château is open for occasional group visits and heritage days, but otherwise is closed to the public.

The village itself has the feel of a film set, with improbably pretty stone buildings, plants and flowers emerging from ancient stone walls and several artisans, including painters, potters and sculptors. You can even try your hand at sculpting workshops that are held throughout the year, or try basket-weaving (vannerie) with Yaëlle at the Atelier Vannerie du Célé.

While you’re exploring, take a look at the Moulin de la Pescalerie, a troglodyte water mill that has long since stopped operating but is a picturesque sight, with its ancient building at the foot of a beautiful waterfall. 

You can continue your visit via the parish church, Église Saint-Pierre, meandering between the houses then following the river to the local ‘beach’. This plage is actually a spot on the river bank, where a stone and shingle beach leads into the shallow waters of the river, ideal for a refreshing dip on a warm day or for hopping into a canoe to explore a little further. Picnic benches are provided nearby and there’s even a boulangerie opposite, to help you make the most of your visit!

Certainly unusual

While you’re here, don’t miss the village’s second museum, Le Musée de l’insolite. Created by a quirky local artist, Gérard Singer, it’s a bizarre collection of curios, artistic installations made from recycled objects and surreal scenes that will make you laugh with surprise.