Five troglodyte wine cellars to visit in France

Wine and cellars go together. Usually, a cave (wine cellar) in French does not mean the same thing as in English but in a few special cases it does. Several wineries in France have ‘super-cellars’ beneath them: extensive caves – natural or excavated – which are worth visiting for their atmosphere alone – and a wine-tasting session down below is a bonus. 

Some of the best of the wine caves are in the Saumur area of the Loire Valley but for variety, I have also included one in the Bordeaux wine region. All these producers welcome visitors and arrange wine tastings but they require prior reservation. 

Read more: French wine guide: choosing regional reds

1. Domaine Du Vieux Pressoir (Vaudelnay, Maine-et-Loire) 

This winery, established in 1892 and well known for its production of organic wines, offers guided tours through its distinctive troglodyte cellars in which the natural properties of tuffeau limestone create a stable environment with consistent temperature and humidity levels that are ideal for the maturation of wines. 

2. Bourillon Dorléans (Vouvray, Indre-et-Loire) 

A group of artists teamed up to carve around 40 wonderful haut-relief sculptures in this cave carved out of the region’s characteristic tuffeau stone, beginning in the 15th Century. The sculptures tell the intertwined stories of life and wine in the region, and pay homage to Saint Martin, the patron saint of Touraine. 

There are self-guided visits through the galleries accompanied by classical music.

3. Bouvet Ladubay (Saumur, Maine-et-Loire)

If you love both wine and cycling you will be in your element in this 8-kilometre labyrinth that can be explored by bike. The caves were excavated in the 11th Century as quarries to build the La Belle d’Anjou abbey, consecrated in 1040. 

Among the subterranean features you will see is La Cathédrale Engloutie, a vast cavern with impressive vaulted ceilings, supported by columns with carved capitals. The winery is renowned for its production of Crémant de Loire.

4. Domaine De L’Enchantoir (Le Puy-Notre-Dame, Maine-et-Loire) 

The troglodyte caves that lie beneath the vines on the hill of l’Enchantoir served as hiding places during World War II when they were known as the Refuge de Chavannes. 

The winery is committed to organic farming and supports local biodiversity. Habitats are provided for bats, which contribute to the ecological balance of the vineyards. The Chenin wines are aged in oak barrels using sustainable practices.

5. Cloitre des Cordeliers (Saint-Emilion, Gironde) 

The stone used to build the beautiful town of Saint-Emilion (and parts of Bordeaux) was excavated from 3km of tunnels running beneath the gardens of an ancient cloister, citadel and vineyards. They are now used to age a local sparkling wine using a method developed at the end of the 19th Century. Being 20m underground they have a constant temperature of 12° throughout the year.