When is the best time of year to eat potatoes? Every day, if you are a dedicated potato lover, because there is essentially a potato variety in France for every season. Plus, there are so many different ways to enjoy them that it's hard to believe the French were initially wary of potatoes and fed them exclusively to livestock.
The history of potatoes in France
The first potatoes arrived in France in the 16th century via Spain. At that time, the centre of potato production was in the Franche-Comté and the Vosges regions, and the foreign tuber was viewed with suspicion for many years. It remained an animal feed crop until a French military pharmacist, Antoine-Auguste Parmentier, discovered its nutritional value as well as its culinary appeal after being fed potatoes while imprisoned during the Seven Years War (1756-1763).
Parmentier began a marketing campaign to encourage his compatriots to eat potatoes. His efforts were crucial during the famines of the 1770s and, eventually, he managed to establish potatoes as a staple crop. There is a famous French potato dish named in his honour, Hachis Parmentier, which is similar to Shepherd's Pie.
French potato varieties
Never mind the wine and cheese, French potatoes are among the finest available in Europe. In 2023, France produced over 7 million tonnes of potatoes, making it the second-biggest potato supplier in the EU.*
Potato cultivation in France benefits from a multitude of diverse microclimates. Island varieties like Noirmoutier grow in sandy soil enriched by seaweed and thrive in the mild climate and salty air. Northern regions produce the best storage varieties, while southern areas specialise in early and mid-season crops. The terroir significantly influences flavour, as demonstrated by coastal varieties that develop distinctive mineral notes.
Several varieties have earned prestigious AOP status, which recognises quality and links the product to specific regions and traditional cultivation methods. An IGP is similar but less restrictive, therefore extending the growing area more widely.
As with much of French cuisine, understanding where a product comes from, when it is at its peak, and how the terroir affects its flavour will help you choose the best potato for your recipe.
Early new potatoes (pommes de terre primeurs)
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These are harvested from late April to July.
The Noirmoutier IGP potato variety, which includes the Bonnotte, is harvested by hand about 90 days after planting, compared to the 120 days for ordinary new potatoes. The skin is therefore very delicate, and these must be brought to market quickly.
The first potato to receive AOP status is the Pomme de Terre de L'île de Ré. This is also an early variety that is harvested until the end of July.
Béa de Roussillon is also an early variety primeur with AOC status.
It is worth noting that a pomme de terre grenaille is not a specific type of potato, but rather a term that indicates size and quality, and is typically associated with small, new potatoes. Thus, a grenaille can be a Ratte, a Charlotte, or an Amandine.
To best enjoy these small, thin-skinned potatoes, simply steam or boil without peeling, and serve hot with butter or cold with a vinaigrette.
Summer and autumn varieties
These make up the bulk of the potato types in France and can be distinguished by their texture, which then determines the most suitable cooking method. They are also thicker-skinned since they are not harvested as soon as the early varieties, but this can vary by type.
Waxy potatoes (chair ferme)
Charlotte, Ratte, BF15: these all tend to be somewhat small in size. They are best suited to boiling or steaming, but because they are more robust, they can also be pan-fried and roasted. Served cold, these are ideal for salads, or keep some parboiled in the fridge and sauté in duck fat to finish cooking and serve with grills, roasts or stews.
Floury potatoes (chair farineuse)
Bintje, Manon: these tend to be high in starch and therefore perfect for chips. Merveille is a type of Bintje potato grown in the north and has IGP status.
Caesar, Marabel: also floury, these are good for purées and gratins.
All-Purpose
Désirée, Belle de Fontenay, Monalisa, red-skinned potatoes: As the category implies, these are good for most preparations, so use them as you like.
Storage varieties
Thicker-skinned potato varieties such as Roseval are great for storagePicture Partners
The best way to identify a potato for keeping during the colder months is to choose one with thicker skin. There is some overlap with the varieties mentioned previously, but Bintje, Désirée, and Roseval are all good choices. Marfona is a variety well-suited to storage, as the flavour actually improves with keeping.
These types will be your go-to for soups, stews, and all the warming, hearty dishes of winter.
The best way to store potatoes, regardless of variety, is in a cool, dark place with good ventilation—for example, in a paper bag in a cool cupboard. The refrigerator tends to make potatoes go soggy and dulls their flavour, and is not ideal for long-term storage.
