Roger Branfill-Cook moved from Wales to France in 2006. A polymath, he is a historian and author with an encyclopaedic knowledge of firearms, artillery, fortifications, armoured vehicles and trains, and naval warfare.
Roger is a battlefield tour guide at Verdun Tourist Office and loves living in the historic town.
"People around here are fantastic. They say 'bonjour' to each other on the street. If you make an effort, they take you to their hearts and help you," he said.
"It is very affordable. Around here a run-down property can cost €12-15,000. Spend €20,000 doing it up and you have a brilliant house.
“There's a lot of culture too. The Carnaval is fantastic, and the music festivals in the summer too, and every year people re-enact the Battle of Verdun. France was born in Verdun, with the 843AD treaty of Verdun which outlined France, Germany and Lorraine. It is such a significant place.
"Verdun is brilliantly located. Calais is less than four hours away by car, Paris is 50 minutes by train. You can drive to Belgium in 30 minutes, Luxembourg in 90 minutes, Germany is not far. Amazing!," said Roger.
Verdun factfile
The nearest airport to Verdun is Metz-Nancy-Lorraine, 66kms away, which does not have regular national flights, and no flights to the UK. The easiest way to get to Verdun is to take the train, which arrives in a railway station designed by Gustave Eiffel.
There are good connections to Paris, Strasbourg, Metz, and further afield. Otherwise, driving might be the most practical transport, especially if you're intending to do a self-guided tour of the battlefields.
The town is also cycle friendly. The 27km Voie Verte links Samogneux and Bras-sur-Meuse. It is part of the EuroVelo 19, a 443km cycle path running from Holland through Belgium and eastern France almost as far as Dijon. It is possible to hire electric bicycles in Verdun, but getting around the battlefields on a bicycle is an activity best suited to the very fit.
Getting around town
There are several (Rezo) bus lines in Verdun, but it is very easy to get around on foot. The city centre is small and mostly pedestrianised in any case. From April to September there are electric boat rides on the Meuse, which are very agreeable. It would probably be hard to live in Verdun without the use of a car.
Verdun is cycle friendlyART GE - Pierre Defontaine
Sport and recreation
Verdun has two stadiums containing football pitches and athletics tracks. It has several skateparks, gyms, and a boulodrome. It has a shooting range run by an association, riding facilities, and an off-road motorbike circuit.
The Pré l'Evêque leisure centre has outdoor swimming, several sports halls, a billiard room, football pitches, tennis courts and a keep-fit course. The Aquadrome has a 25m swimming pool, and a fun pool with bubbles, slides, water jets, and an artificial river. There is also a wellness centre with a sauna, jacuzzi and hammam. There is also a golf course, a putting green, and a cinema in the centre.
Healthcare
Verdun is well-supplied with doctors and medical care. There are 100 doctors, including 10 GPs, 16 dentists, and 26 nurses. This means a ration of 1 GP for 1,661 patients. Getting an appointment is not difficult.
The Centre Hospitalier de Verdun Saint-Mihiel is the fourth largest hospital in Lorraine, with 1,187 beds and 1,800 health professionals spread over four establishments in Verdun.
Canals and rivers wind through VerdunPhilippe PATERNOLLI/Shutterstock
Education
Verdun does not have any bilingual or international schools at any level. It has several state schools and one private school, but only one lycée offering a bac général. Tertiary education is also sparse. The hospital has a training centre for nurses, and another for nursing assistants.
Population
Verdun is the biggest city in Meuse with a population of 16,610, although the capital of the département is Bar-le-Duc, which is slightly smaller with a population of 14,668. Grand Verdun has a population approaching 30,000.
The city's population dipped substantially after both World Wars, climbed gradually until the 1970s and then began a decline which continues today. 35.3% of the population are under 30 and 29.2% are over 60.
Main industries and employments
Around half of Verdun's working population are employed in the service sector. It also has a growing number of self-employed tradespeople. Large employers include the State, Lacatlis (dairy products), Berni (meat products) and Ineos (chemical products). France's largest thermal solar plant opened in 2023, to power the Lacto factory.
Tourism is an important sector. 500,000 tourists a year visit Verdun.
