Marseille is a city that often has a bad reputation, but it is my favourite city in France, if not Europe.
No one can deny that the city – which often initiates discussion of danger and crime rates – has had a resurgence in recent years.
Not only have international tourists started flocking to the city, in no part due to cheap flights to the Marseille-Provence airport, but other French people – even national rivals the Parisians – are seeing the city in a new light.
Search for the city on Google and reams of articles appear about people who have decided to move to the city, or why it should be next on your list of summer getaways.
Why? The reasons seem endless, at least to me.
Property prices are more reasonable than in other large cities including nearby Nice, cool restaurants and bars are popping up on every corner and, of course, the regular sunshine is a major attraction.
Marseille has culture and people who are happy to engage in conversation.
It feels modern, European and multicultural, but at the same time has a history spanning thousands of years that residents are fiercely proud of.
Cheap flights a bonus
In short, I thought it was the ideal destination for my parents’ 72-hour escape from Scotland's mild weather.
For years, they have batted the idea aside.
They spent their twenties working along the coast in Fréjus and Nice, and after I spent some time in the south-east, nostalgia was getting the better of them.
A cheap Ryanair flight from Edinburgh helped convince them, and my parents and their friends set off to see what all the fuss was about.
With a strict itinerary in hand, they arrived at their Airbnb in the slightly calmer Port de Malmousque area, which has good bus links to the centre, as well as having plenty of amenities itself.
They quickly opted to venture into the city for my first recommendation, Cours Julien.
This is the main square in Marseille, where you can sit out, enjoy an aperitif and watch the world go by.
In a classic move, they then jumped on one of the sightseeing tour buses that trace around the city, looking for a place to have a drink.
Despite sometimes being met with derision, when on a quick city-break these buses are a great way to get your bearings and spot places you might want to go back to.
The bus dropped them right back near their Airbnb, where they found a bar to enjoy a glass of wine and catch the sunset.
Next on my itinerary for them was dinner at ‘L'eau à la Bouche’, a pizza place so famous in the city I have never actually been myself as the queue has always been too long.
My parents had thought ahead and booked a table. They loved the hustle and bustle and the no-nonsense approach – my Dad was firmly told there would be no egg added to his Reine (ham and mushroom) pizza.
Day two began with a visit to the local parks and some sunbathing.
I had booked them lunch at La Mercerie, which had a €35 euro three-course lunch menu.
Rave reviews for the food and restaurant followed and my parents then took a detour to ‘Les Halles’.
This marketplace has been transformed into a modern food and drink spot, with different stalls to choose from.
A city to visit and live in
On the last evening, they popped up to the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde, where there were lots of people enjoying drinks in the evening sunshine.
In their Uber back to the airport, the taxi driver took the liberty of playing tour guide, and showed them the estate where Zinedine Zidane, the famous footballer, grew up.
True or not, I appreciate the taxi driver buying into the project to make my parents fall in love with the city.
“How was it?” I asked, when they arrived home, somehow feeling responsible for their feelings towards my beloved Marseille.
“We loved it!” they said, “but we do still like the Riviera too.”
Marseille felt like a place where French people both lived and came on holiday they said, giving it an authentic feel.
They hardly heard any English spoken throughout the entire weekend, which gave them a good shot at putting their French to practice.
It was also, in their words, ‘so young’. The quote of the trip came from my Mum: “I feel like we are seeing Marseille through a 27 year old's eyes!”
