Peillon: a picturesque village perché in the south of France

The southern area of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, known as PACA, is famous for dazzling coasts and luxury yachts, but if you have ever explored the region, you have probably spotted some of the 120 ancient villages perched on mountaintops. 

Seemingly impossible to access, let alone to build, these villages perchés date back to medieval times, typically developing around an ancient fortress that was strategically placed to survey the surrounding landscape. Each has a fascinating history and unique charm, and Peillon is no exception.

Step back in time

Home to 1,428 residents, Peillon sits 376 metres above sea level, a mere 35-minute drive from the flashy glamour of Monaco and Villefranche-sur-Mer, yet it seems to exist in another century, possibly because no cars are allowed in the centre, giving it an otherworldly, timeless feel. 

Stone houses seem to huddle together on the narrow streets and front doors line cobbled pavements connected by winding passageways and steep staircases.

The site has been inhabited since the Iron Age, with the first fortified town developing here around 980 AD, although most of the buildings you can see today date from the 1700s and 1800s.

Remarkably, it is not very commercial: there are no souvenir shops and touristy bars, but visitors can drink up the atmosphere in the two bistros and three restaurants, one of which (Auberge de la Madone) offers fine dining and 17 guest rooms if you have the urge to sleep off your meal.

Historic sites and a shared bread oven

A stroll around the village leads you past the gateway to the original fortress, as well as the remains of the look-out towers (tours de guet) on the northwest side. 

In the main square, you will find a fountain that dates from 1800 and is listed as a historic monument. Following the passageways, you will pass under several archways connecting village walls.

Take time to visit the four communal, a shared bread oven that is still in use today. It was available for all the villagers to use in turn, bringing their prepared loaves and their own firewood.

Among Peillon’s wonderful buildings are several oratories. These are small chapels that house a statue of a saint, and they were used as small prayer chapels. Find them on the outskirts of the village, particularly the Oratoire de l’Immaculée Conception, Oratoire de la Madonette and Oratoire de la Merla.

The Chapelle Notre-Dame des Sept Douleurs is famous for its magnificent frescoes painted by Giovanni Canavesio in 1485-1490 that tell the story of Christ’s Passion. Visitors can drop a coin in the coin-box to admire these highly detailed paintings, or you can follow a guided visit to learn their full story.

Nearby, the Chapelle Saint-Roch dates from 1580 and was restored in 2004. You can follow a path from the chapel to the Oratoire de la Merla, which will also give you a fabulous view over the village – a perfect spot for taking photos.

At the top of the village, you will find the Church of Saint-Sauveur, which was built on the exact spot of the village’s original fortress. In fact, the castle keep was given a new lease of life in the 1100s in the form of a square church tower until, in the early 1800s, it was rebuilt with an octagonal slate roof.

During a restoration in 1980, fragments of frescoes by an unknown artist were discovered in the choir.

Peillon celebrates the Fête de la Saint Sauveur at the start of August each year, bringing together locals and tourists to share in church services, live music, and warm bread fresh from the shared bread oven. 

Even if you cannot make it for this event, make a detour for Peillon when you can: its historic atmosphere and heritage treasures make for an unforgettable visit.