Bistro life makes a comeback

CAFES, bars and bistrots have been given a boost with the return of customers in growing numbers for the first time since the economic crisis started in 2008.

The increase is still modest, at just 1.2% – but as that amounts to around seven million extra customers over the past year that means at least €7 million extra has been spent on coffees.

Even though down on other sectors, restaurants still managed a 0.2% rise – a marked contrast to supermarket cafes which saw their business rise 2.7% in 2011 from 2010, adding up to 21m more customers through the doors.

Elsewhere, fast food restaurants have been seeing business growing over the past two years with a 1.9% increase in business in 2011 after a 2.7% rise in 2010.

Christine Tartanson, head of the food service division at pollsters NPD, which carries out the annual survey, said: “It’s the first time since the start of the economic crisis in 2008 we have seen a rise in business in cafes and brasseries.”

Jean Villa, of the country restaurants group Bistrot du Pays, said : “Here in France we were hit by a double problem – the crise and also the smoking ban which has had a dramatic negative effect on our bar trade, meaning they had to develop the food side.

“Being country restaurants we have to work hard to set ourselves apart and it is harder still in nontourist areas and we have to to put on entertainment and other activities to bring in customers. “Happily, in general, it has been working but there are large differences across our network.”

Ms Tartanson said much of the return in the cafe trade was being led by young people (15-24) along with families who were starting to return to cafes since the start of the smoking ban.

However, while more young people were heading for cafes – in contrast to other European countries like the UK or Spain, where they are feeling the pinch – in France it is older adults who are opting out by staying in.

The NPD study showed over-25s were keeping an eye on their wallets and, especially at lunch-time, opting for a sandwich at their desk or canteen food, losing 18 million meals a year.

This spring could be the turning point as new menus are launched. Ms Tartanson said: “The rise in costs for basic goods plus VAT will have an impact on this sector which is still quite fragile, particularly if there is a rise in prices just as another global event makes people tighten their belts again.”