French cheese production adapts to climate change

Cheesemakers in the Alps have teamed up with scientists to better manage the impact of climate change on their industry and products. 

In 2022, dry conditions forced the Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Fromage Abondance (SIFA), a group of cheesemakers in the Abondance valley, south of Lake Geneva, to ask the AOC controlling body for a temporary relaxation of rules regarding what their cows could be fed, allowing hay from outside the region to be used.

AOP (appellation d'origine contrôlée) status is usually subject to strict regulations, including geographical limits to production and feed, to stop products from being copied elsewhere. 

“[A temporary exception] was not easily granted, which came as a shock to producers,” said SIFA head Joël Vindret.

The effect of climate change

“It really started us thinking about the impact of climate change for our cheese – being outside, in the high mountains, we see its effects every day, and we want to make sure we have a future.”

Studies confirmed what members already suspected.

“There had been suggestions that we move to silage or concentrates to feed the cattle in winter, but the research showed that doing so changed the cheese drastically,” said Mr Vindret.

As well as heatwaves and drought, climate change in the region has seen longer spells of cool, damp weather in spring and early summer, when grass is cut for hay.

“These conditions mean less hay is produced in those years. To manage our feed, we will need larger hay barns so we can stock up during the good years.”

The climate change guidelines cover three main areas: looking after pastures, managing the cattle in them, and improving dairies and the buildings in which cheese is matured, called fruitières.

When the spring grass is abundant, such as in 2025, farmers will start cutting hay earlier, and with greater precision with regard to weather forecasts, to maximise the hay yield.

Grass will also be monitored more closely, with natural reseeding at least once every five years. 

Closer control on the use of fertiliser is also recommended, as too much causes problems for farms’ water supplies.

When the summer grass is thin due to heatwaves, the resultant cheese is likely to be paler, with a less complex taste.

The maturation process, of at least 100 days, is also affected by climate change.

“Some makers still use underground caves, while others have specific buildings for it. 

"In both cases the process is affected by changes in temperature and humidity,” said Mr Vindret.

“We will have to adjust the position of cheeses to ensure they are ready for market in peak condition, insulate buildings better and invest in more energy efficient refrigerators.”

How production is adapting

Other practical measures include new mountain paths to move cows between pastures. 

This helps to reduce erosion and increases the amount of grass available for grazing.

In addition, heifers (female cows who have not yet had a calf) will move into high pasture early in the year to crop the grass before the main herd arrives. 

This encourages regrowth of fresh grass just as the milk-producing cows need it most.

Heifers will also be left in the high pastures longer in autumn so they do not eat as much hay.

Abondance cheese makers have traditionally milked their cows in pastures in the summer, carrying the milk down to dairies in the valley every evening. 

However, hotter summers mean that, in addition to mobile milking machines, they will also need refrigeration units in the pasture to reduce the risk of milk spoiling from the heat during transfer.

Mr Vindret said he was confident that members will be able to make the necessary changes.

“Cheese has been made in this place for many hundreds of years. 

"Our ancestors found ways to adapt to changing conditions, and it is up to us to do the same.”