Fish, like vegetables, have their seasons, and there’s
something particularly appealing about bringing fish to the table during summer
months.
Here in France, navigating fish markets can be challenging when both
names and species differ from what you might know elsewhere, so let’s explore a
few of the more common fish available in French markets.
Selecting fresh fish
When choosing fresh fish, there are a few basics to observe.
Whole fish is always better than fillets because many freshness markers are
still present. The skin should be shiny, not slimy, and the gills should be
red. The eyes should be bright, and the fins should not be too stiff. Avoid
fish with an unpleasant aroma.
After choosing, the fishmonger can fillet, or prepare the
whole fish, so it is ready to cook. In any case, it is a good idea to develop a
relationship with your fishmonger so they get to know your preferences and you
know that even if you buy fillets, you can ask about freshness with confidence.
If you are unsure how to cook a particular fish, ask your fishmonger; they are
a remarkable source of excellent advice and recipes.
There are several types of bream available in France. Farmed
bream is widespread but the best for flavour are the wild, daurade royale from
the waters around France: the Mediterranean or the Gulf of Gascony on the
Atlantic side. Other types of bream are spelt dorade and may be called dorade
grise or dorade rose.
In terms of preparation, there is no difference, and the
types may be used interchangeably in recipes.
A fishmonger can prepare fillets, but this fish is best when
cooked whole. The bones and skin impart even more flavour, and there are many
bones, so they are easier to remove when lifting the cooked fillets to serve.
If you roast a whole bream, have the fishmonger scale (écailler), clean (vider),
and remove the fins (les nageoires). The tail and head can come off too, if you prefer, but it’s not necessary.
Ad
Red mullet (rouget)
In France, the rock-dwelling rouget barbet is prized for its
delicate flavour. It should not be confused with the rouget grondin, which is
very similar but less sought after; if in doubt, you can identify a barbet by
the little fins under its chin, it’s barbe, hence the name.
Connoisseurs prefer their rouget roasted whole, with the
liver intact, as this is considered a delicacy. However, if you try this, you
must cook the fish as soon as possible. Alternatively, cooking it whole without
the liver allows for more flexible timing. Whatever your method, rouget must
always be eaten as fresh as possible because it is a very delicate fish.
To fully appreciate the flavour, it is best not to
complicate things when cooking red mullet. A quick blast in a hot oven, with
very little seasoning other than a drizzle of good-quality extra virgin olive
oil and some herbs, is ideal. Beware, though, when eating, as these little fish
have quite a lot of bones. Fillets are much easier, but be sure to have them
prepared by the fishmonger, again, because of the bones. It’s quite a task! For
fillets, quick pan-frying with minimal seasoning works best.
To complicate language issues, hake has two names in French:
merlu and colin. Two names, one fish. But the complication stops there because
hake is an easy-going fish that adapts well to most cooking methods. It is a
mild-tasting white fish without too many bones, and it is easy on the purse.
Win-win! If ever you see a merluchon, or a colinot, these are also hake, just
much smaller hence the diminutive names.
Hake is sold whole, in fillets, or in steaks, and the latter
makes a nice change. Steaks can be lightly dredged in seasoned flour and
pan-fried in butter, baked in a parchment case, simmered in a hearty tomato
sauce, or poached in a court bouillon and served cold with mayonnaise as part
of an aïoli platter.
Recipe: Roast sea bream with potatoes, tomatoes and olives
Serves four, the quantity of fish depends on the size and the
appetites of the diners; if the bream are very large, one bream for two people
may suffice.
To begin, heat the oven to 190°C, and line a large baking tray
with parchment paper.
Roast sea bream with potatoes, tomatoes and olivesLaura Washburn Hutton
Peel and thickly slice 650g waxy potatoes. Toss the potato
slices in extra virgin olive oil to coat generously. Arrange the slices in a
single layer in the tray, season, and roast for 15 minutes until part cooked.
Next, thickly slice 2-3 large tomatoes and arrange these
randomly on top of the potatoes and scatter over a big handful of wrinkly,
black olives and some thyme sprigs.
Pat dry the whole sea bream that have been scaled and
gutted. Score the fish 2-3 times on the fleshy part then lay on top of the
tomatoes and potatoes. Drizzle with oil and squeeze over the juice of half a
lemon. Season well with salt and pepper.
Roast until the fish is cooked through, about 25 minutes. To
serve, drizzle with more extra virgin olive oil and add another squeeze of a
lemon half.
