Recipe: goat’s cheese, thyme and red onion tartlets

There is something hugely nostalgic about eating in the open air. Just the thought of an idyllic setting, a large comfortable rug, perhaps your most loved book and an array of delectable bites, is heavenly. For what is better than eating alfresco on a warm balmy day? 

Under vast open skies and with rolling hills, a windswept beach, a mountain stream or wooded parkland as your stage, a picnic has the ability to take all one’s cares away and let the great outdoors, food in our bellies and excellent company fill us with warmth and happiness.

Picnics are quintessentially associated with happy times – they represent an escape from the daily grind and a chance to let down your hair. 

When we open up a picnic on the beach, for example, memories might come flooding back from those special times we did this as children: the sounds from the nearby amusement park; the smell of sea air mingled with fish and chips; soft ice cream with a soggy chocolate flake; but most of all, the anticipation of discovering what was for lunch – from homemade quiches and salads to dips and dippers and sandwiches. 

Picture the setting: the motley collection of baskets and bags; buckets and spades; towels and windbreaks; and all the provisions needed for a perfect picnic. 

Read also: Fresh fava bean and asparagus salad recipe: a spring delight with mint and goat cheese

Where the word picnic derived from no one can be sure. It could be old English for ‘pot luck’ where all attending would bring a dish, or the word may be derived from French piquer ‘to pick’ and nique, ‘a thing of little importance’, although you would be hard pushed to say a flaky meat pie was of little importance! 

One thing is for sure, the art of picnicking is long established and much loved. The joy of eating outdoors is that it can be as simple or as glamorous as you like. While organising a picnic on a grand scale is about delegation and organisation, a small rustic picnic can be equally as wonderful, with just a blanket or two, some cheese sandwiches and, of course, some good company to share them with. 

The most wonderful thing about picnicking is that there are few rules, you can go as wild or as tame as you like. Either way, just packing a hamper full of things you have made to share with the people whose company you most enjoy is delicious in itself, and if you stick to a theme and use savvy ways to transport and present your picnic, it needn’t be a headache.

Goat’s cheese, thyme and red onion tartlets

This recipe serves six.

Equipment 

• Six 10cm loose-based tartlet pans, greased 

• baking beans 

Ingredients 

• 6 thick slices from a log of chèvre (goat’s cheese) 

• 6 sprigs of fresh thyme 

Pastry 

• 3 small sprigs of fresh thyme, stalks removed 

• 160g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 

• 40g butter 

• 40g lard

Caramelised onions

• 3 large red onions, thinly sliced 

• 55g butter 

• 40g soft brown sugar 

• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 

• 3 tablespoons cassis liqueur 

• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Read also: Recipe: delicious egg, hollandaise and asparagus tartlets

Method

1. For the pastry, put the thyme leaves, flour, butter and lard in a food processor and mix on the pulse setting to a breadcrumb consistency. Gradually add 2–3 table spoons water to form a soft dough. You now have a lovely thyme pastry. Remove from the food processor, wrap in cling film and leave it in the fridge to chill for about 30 minutes.

2. While you are waiting for the pastry to chill, you can prepare the caramelised onions. Pop the red onions, butter, sugar, balsamic vinegar, cassis and seasoning into a large frying pan and cook over very low heat. 

Watch carefully as the caramelising process starts and the liquid starts to thicken and bubble, as it may burn. Stir the onions occasionally to prevent clumping. 

Continue to simmer until nearly all of the liquid has evaporated and it is a sticky jam-like consistency.

3. Preheat the oven to 200°C with a large baking sheet inside.

4. Divide the pastry into six portions. On a floured surface, roll them out into circles, 5mm thick, and use to line the prepared tartlet pans, trimming away the excess pastry around the edges. Line the pastry with parchment and baking beans, place on the hot baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes. 

Remove the beans and paper and return to the oven for 5 minutes, then let cool for a few minutes in the pans. Leave the oven on.

5. Divide the caramelised onions between the tartlets and place a slice of goat’s cheese on top, followed by salt and pepper and a sprig of thyme. 

Bake for 10–15 minutes until the cheese is bubbling.

6. Leave to cool before packing into airtight containers for your picnic.

This recipe features in the cookbook 'Picnic' published by Ryland Peters & Small (£14.99). Photography © Ryland Peters & Small