France has the largest network of navigable inland waterways in Europe, spanning 8,000km, of which 5,000km is made up of canals.
Cruising at an average speed of 6km/h, this slower pace allows travellers to really soak up the scenery they pass, from historic villages to sprawling vineyards.
The most popular routes include the Canal du Midi, the oldest canal in Europe, which links Toulouse with the Mediterranean. Constructed in the late 1600s under the reign of Louis XIV, it is today a Unesco World Heritage site.
“We have seen growing interest in lesser-known regions such as the Alsace Wine Route, Loire Valley, Upper Nivernais Canal, and the Moselle route near Luxembourg,” says Katie Colcutt, a cruise consultant at French Waterways, which represents more than 50 hotel barges.
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“These offer a quieter, more authentic side of France that many travellers are now seeking.”
It was just such an experience that travel blogger Eileen Cotter Wright, 40, from Boston, Massachusetts, sought when she was researching canal holidays.
“As an American traveller, I found it to be something really new to experience France outside the major cities and get a true feel for its spirit,” she says.
Wanting a manageable route for her, her husband and elderly parents, she chose a seven-night trip along the Canal du Centre, in Burgundy, in May 2023.
“We chose the route due to the easy nature of the journey, including not too many locks to navigate,” she says.
“It was our first time so we wanted to make sure it was simple and stress-free.”
Boat life
Hire companies rent out boats from late March to mid-November, and provide an orientation session for travellers so they can get to grips with how everything works.
Boats typically accommodate between two and 12 people and neither experience nor a formal licence are required.
For Ms Cotter Wright’s family, some prior knowledge came in useful.
“My father had definitely researched the route and tips for steering the boat the most, so he felt very prepared,” she says.
“But it was easy for us to learn and handle the boat too. It was really enjoyable and we felt like we had accomplished something together as a team.”
Cruising four to five hours a day will ensure you see a lot of the region as well as keep the boat’s batteries well charged. Locks are generally open from 9:00 to 18:00. Cruising during the night is not allowed.
With so many canals in France, how can travellers decide the best route for them?
It is worth thinking about your level of boating experience first, said Amandine Jimenez, marketing manager for Southern Europe, UK and Ireland at Le Boat, which has been renting out boats on France’s canals for over 50 years.
“Consider the number and type of locks; first-timers often enjoy routes with fewer, well-spaced locks. They can be manual or automatic or controlled by lockkeepers, depending on the region.”
For beginners, she recommends Camargue, with only two locks, the Canal du Midi and Brittany. Experienced boaters may enjoy Lot and Charente, which have manual locks that crew will have to step off the boat to operate themselves.
Other considerations include the sites and attractions that crew wish to visit along the way, and the level of facilities and infrastructure they expect.
Slow pace
Well-established routes such as the Canal du Midi and Burgundy tend to have more services such as well-marked moorings, fuel and water points.
Most importantly, travellers should prepare to slow down.
“Embrace the pace,” says Ms Colcutt. “It is all about the journey, not ticking off miles. The beauty is in the stillness, the scenery, and the sense of calm that comes from disconnecting completely.”
Ms Jimenez agrees. “Plan for fewer miles than you think,” she says. “Locks and bridges can easily double journey times.”
Are there any common faux pas that first-time crew can avoid?
“Standing on the sun deck under bridges,” says Ms Jimenez.
“It’s a classic mistake but a dangerous one, as many bridges can be lower than you think.”
Ms Cotter Wright recommends an off-season trip for first-timers to avoid too much traffic.
“Avoid the major waterways if possible too, as some of the commercial barges can be intimidating!”
Choosing a hotel barge stay leaves it all to professionalsTom Curtress/Shutterstock
If the idea of captaining your own boat is daunting, a hotel barge offers the chance to cede responsibility to a professional.
These fully-crewed boats usually accommodate between two and 12 guests, and generally include meals and excursions.
“We have seen a remarkable evolution in this form of travel over the past decade,” says Ms Colcutt. “Everything is taken care of – guests can simply relax and enjoy the experience without worrying about navigating locks or mooring.”
Unsurprisingly, such convenience comes at a cost. While the average price for a seven-night, self-drive trip with Le Boat is £2,500 (for the boat, not including fuel, mooring fees, travel to the base), expect to pay in the region of €6,000 per person for a hotel barging experience.
