Five incredible French underground churches to explore

Churches are usually identified by soaring towers and spires, but some of them go the other way. France has a number of églises monolithes (rock-hewn churches) which are either built underground or carved into cliff faces. Some were created by monks seeking peace and isolation from the world, while others developed from natural caves that became places of Christian worship and pilgrimage. Here are five that are open to the public.

1. Église monolithe de Saint-Émilion, Saint-Émilion (Gironde)

The largest underground church in Europe is completely carved out of limestone. The nave, 11m tall, is flanked by two aisles and pillars. It is believed to have been excavated between the late 11th and early 12th Centuries under the direction of Benedictine monks, and its design was almost certainly influenced by early Christian churches in the Middle East as reported by returning Crusaders. It has undergone modifications over the centuries, including the addition of Gothic windows and the bell-tower spire.

2. Église Saint-Jean, Aubeterre-sur-Dronne (Charente)

This remarkable church, built into a cliffside, has a special significance for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. An earlier sanctuary probably existed by the 8th Century, but the present church was largely excavated and enlarged by Benedictine monks during the 12th Century. The nave, with semi-circular vaults, reaches 20m in height and is bordered on three sides by a gallery accessible via a staircase, also carved from the rock. The reliquary, an imposing decorated stone structure, is considered a masterpiece of Romanesque art.

3. Grotte Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, Plan-d’Aups (Var)

Access to this huge cave sanctuary, formed naturally in the limestone, is controlled by Dominican monks. Visitors must climb a 150-step stone staircase. The reliquary is said to hold parts of Mary Magdalene’s body, though not her skull, which can be seen in the crypt of the Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene at Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume nearby. Local legend claims that Mary Magdalene came from Palestine to end her life in the peace and quiet of Provence, taking refuge in this cave.

4. Abbaye de Saint-Gilles-du-Gard, Saint-Gilles (Gard)

Saint-Gilles Abbey, built around the tomb of Saint Giles the hermit, was a major place of pilgrimage in the middle ages. It reached its peak of fame in the 12th Century, when it was the fourth most popular pilgrimage destination after Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago de Compostela.

5. Chapelle Sainte-Radegonde, Coteau Sainte-Radegonde, Chinon (Indre-et-Loire)

This is a semi-troglodytic chapel with possibly pagan origins before being dedicated to Jean le Reclus, a medieval hermit who is said to have received Saint Radegund (Radegonde), the 6th-Century Queen of the Franks (later canonised). The walls are decorated with murals from different periods, in varying states of preservation. One, probably depicting a hunting scene, dates from the end of the 12th Century.