Spice of life

Saffron is one of the world's most expensive spices, with around around 150 flowers required to make a single gram of the precious condiment, and 90% of it is produced in Iran. However, there is a French alternative, thanks Normandy farmer Myriam Duteil, who runs Domaine de Gauville.

She has been selling saffron - the stigmas or threads inside the flowers of the saffron crocus - from her farm since 2013. "We don't sell it as a powder," she said. "we only sell dried threads, so that customers are certain of the quality. Threads can also be stored better than powder and are easily crumbled when needed."

Production at the farm is increasing year on year, partly because more crocuses are planted every spring, and partly because the bulbs self-propagate. Harvesting the threads has to be done within 24 hours of the flowers blooming, or the petals will stick to them, making harvest all but impossible.

The work is done by hand from September to October explained Mme Duteil. "It's December in Morocco, but it's colder here so the flowers bloom earlier. During the first days there are just a few flowers so it's easy but once all the bulbs are in flower, it's really hard work and I hire seasonal workers to help."

The work doesn't stop there. "Harvesting is easy, but drying the threads requires skill," she said. "First we discard any yellow parts, which can be bitter, and then we dry in special ovens. The quicker saffron dries the more flavour it retains, but you mustn't burn them or dry them out too much. If you dry them naturally it can take 24 hours, which is too slow."

At Domaine de Gauville, Mme Duteil also sells saffron-flavoured cider vinegar, mustard and sea salt. "We also make saffron milk jam, which is delicious, and salted butter caramel, flavoured with saffron, as well as little biscuits. This autumn I plan to develop a risotto kit containing all the spices and the rice, so all you have to add is the stock, and your choice of prawns, mushrooms or whatever else you like."

Domaine de Gauville is open for visits, and customers can either buy Myriam's products at the farm shop or on her website. She also has a gîte which sleeps 15 people. Guests staying in the autumn can watch the saffron harvest.