Garlic is audacious. Its pungent scent and powerful flavour – with each small clove packing a huge punch – have aroused strong feelings throughout history. This is an ingredient which, at times, has been scorned by the upper classes in society, and frowned upon by a number of the world’s religions.
On the other hand, garlic’s extraordinary ability to transform and invigorate dishes has made it a much-loved and essential flavouring in kitchens around the world. There is a distinctly democratic streak to its universal popularity; eaten with relish by the poor in many countries for many centuries, it has long been known to ancient civilisations, including those of China, India, Egypt, Greece and Rome.
The name ‘garlic’ originates from the Anglo Saxon word ‘gar’ meaning spear, a reference to the shape of the plant’s leaves, though the plant itself is thought to be native to Central Asia.
Otherwise known as Allium sativum, garlic’s powerful flavour is released through crushing and chopping. One of the pleasures of cooking with it is learning how to adjust the level of ‘garlic power’ as required. For example, keeping a garlic clove whole makes it less powerful than cutting it into small pieces, in order to subtly infuse but not overwhelm a dish.
GARLIC, by Jenny LinfordRyland Peters & Small
A whole garlic clove fried in oil but then discarded, with the flavoured oil then used for cooking, is an effective method of adding its distinctive taste discreetly. A whole garlic clove placed in the cavity of a chicken before roasting has a similar effect, as has adding one to a slowly simmered casserole or sauce. Rubbing a salad bowl with a peeled garlic clove is a classic and elegant way of adding garlic notes.
When asked to write this book, I was thrilled.
I had realised some years ago that all my favourite dishes contained garlic, so my affection for this extraordinary flavouring is deep and long-held.
There are so many different ways of using garlic that, when it came to inspiration, I was spoilt for choice. French, Italian, Lebanese, Indian, Portuguese, Chinese, Thai – there are very few cuisines in the world in which garlic does not play a part.
It is a truly cosmopolitan ingredient that features in many of the world’s classic dishes, from Italy’s homely pasta carbonara or Egypt’s rustic ful medames to luxurious French coq au vin and Thailand’s aromatic green curry.
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In writing this book, I’ve also embraced garlic-flavoured ingredients, such as wild garlic/ramps and garlic chives, on the grounds that they, too, deserve a place in a celebration of garlic.
Affordable and readily available, garlic is an everyday, almost humble ingredient, yet, when one stops to think about it, a remarkable one. If I had to choose one desert island ingredient, it would be garlic.
Garlic anchovy roast lamb
Adding a few classic flavourings to lamb before roasting is a simple step that transforms the finished dish.
As the lamb cooks, the anchovy fillets ‘melt’ into the dish, adding an extra umami touch to the tender lamb.
Serve with new potatoes and broccoli, green beans or brussels sprout tops.
Ingredients (serves 4-6 people)
1 leg of lamb, approx. 1.5kg
2 garlic cloves, chopped into slivers
5 anchovy fillets, chopped into short pieces
3 fresh rosemary sprigs, cut into short pieces
40g butter, softened
150ml red wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper
a small handful of fresh basil leaves, roughly sliced
1. Preheat the oven to 230°C. Bring the lamb to room temperature.
2. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Using a small, sharp knife, cut little incisions in the lamb flesh on all sides of the leg. Take a piece each of garlic, anchovy and rosemary and insert the flavourings into an incision, making sure to push the garlic into the flesh. Repeat the process until the garlic has been used up.
Clare Winfield
3. Mash any remaining anchovy and rosemary leaves into the softened butter. Place the lamb in a roasting tray and smear the butter over the fleshy part of the lamb. Pour over the red wine.
4. Roast the lamb in the preheated oven for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C and roast for a further 45 minutes for medium rare or 30–35 minutes for rare, basting now and then with the wine roasting juices.
5. Remove from the oven and rest in a warm place for 30 minutes.
6. To make the gravy, de-glaze the roasting pan – place it on the stovetop, add the stock or water and bring to the boil. Scrape the pan with a wooden spoon to release the flavoursome brown residues so they combine with the liquid.
7. Serve the lamb with the roasting juice gravy on the side.
